Chapter 5
NAMCHE BAZAAR
Views from the top
We all stand huddled together in the tiny hallway daring not to go out.
It is dark and I can feel the icy breeze coming through the gaps around the door. Finally Neema throws it open and says “Follow me”.
Everyone looks dead tired and this freezing mountain air is catching in our lungs.
Someone sings out “Happy New Year” and we all say it in unison back.
“Well, what a way to start it” says someone!!! Ummmmm, not looking good so far!
It is pitch black and we are heading upwards. The stars are shining and the breeze is blowing and it is all I can do to shuffle along, my body tight and rigid with cold. Well, it could be the clothing. I am wearing everything I have. Thermals, two lots of socks, very thick track pants, two thick jumpers, a down jacket, beanie, gloves and scarf. I am all kitted out but it makes no difference.
The wind chill factor must be -100 degrees!
I ask Neema where we are going and he points up in the way of the Park Headquarters. Unfortunately, I now know how far I must walk! It is head down and on with the job.
I can’t really tell you how long it takes but eventually we arrive in a large open area and Neema tells us that we are about to witness something very special.
Well, I must say I am very glad about that because it has to be worth dragging us up here at this time of the morning.
Ergon arrives with a thermos of hot chocolate and passes around cups of this delicious mix. Just what we need as we wait for ‘this event’.
Everyone surmises what it might be but I tell you, none of us were ready for what actually happened.
Minutes tick by and we can see the light of the sun gently back dropping the mountains and then suddenly a vision so incredible was revealed that I don’t think any explanation would do it justice.
The suns rays hit the highest mountain peak.
When the sun hits the surface, the ice reflects it like a mirror.
This triangle of mountain peak shines like a prism of golden bullion.
We gasp in awe, the moment is surreal.
Then as the sun comes up higher, it lights one icy mountain after the other until five or six golden triangles are hanging in the black sky.
Honestly, this is one of the most miraculous visions I have ever witnessed.
And to see the first light rays on Everest for the new millennium is totally unbelievable and unexpected.
What a start to the year?
What a great reason to haul ourselves out of bed! I would not have missed it for the world.
Frozen but standing in front of golden triangle
We are all euphoric and are only ready to leave the spot when the sun is fully up. The adrenalin stays with us all day. We file back down for breakfast we are fizzing with excitement. We chatter brightly over our porridge and boiled eggs before Neema tells us what is on the program for the day.
Yes folks, it is uphill again. The huge mountain behind Namche has to be climbed for acclimatisation and we know the drill. No complaints it is just head down and push that body into higher altitude zones.
This won’t be much fun as I can see from here the climb is very steep.
I have a slight headache so I am managing well so far. Most of us have the headache problem but Ian is still grappling with his chest pains. Neema suggests he try today’s climb and that way he can see if the problem eases and is therefore an acclimatisation side affect, or whether he has more serious issues and should return to Kathmandu.
After breakfast we are scrambling up the cliff pass.
View back down to Namche Bazaar
It really is up and up and around boulder after boulder and there are no flat bits.
A look across to Park Headquarters
The great thing is we have a view of the valley almost immediately and then all the way is one spectacular vista after another.
The hills are alive with the Sound of Music
And boy it is special. The higher we go we can see the Park Headquarters, Namche Bazaar, and all way down the valley. When we reach the top, for goodness sake there is an airport!!!! Well, it is a very small flat grassy patch with a flying sock.
Top of the Town
There are also a few buildings and we take a look around. One of these is the famous and very expensive Japanese Hotel - The Everest. We are told it is totally pressurised so they can fly in, see Everest from the windows and not worry about acclimatising. We find that the hotel closed down because of the difficulty in getting aircraft in. It is a real shame as apparently you could see Everest from your bathtub!!!
But then decide that it really was the cheat’s way!
We take in the magic
It is time to return to the Teahouse for lunch and a rest afternoon.
Mr G and I decide to walk down to the main part of town. The road zig zags down the hill to the shops and small eateries. We see a few tourists but not that many as this is winter and probably not the best time to trek. But so far we have been lucky with clear skies and but we do have to contend with freezing nights.
When we finally walk to the lowest part of town I get horrible stomach pains and decide I should get to a toilet, fast. But where!
“You’d better get back to the Teahouse” says a very helpful Mr G. “I’ll do a bit more photography. See you back at the top.”
Tibetans camp with frozen waterfall
Mr G disappears down a street when it suddenly dawns on me that I don’t actually know where exactly the Teahouse is! No worries, I’ll just start rushing up any street in the general direction.
'Rushing' and 'up' seem like the most important actions at this moment.
But the streets switchback and in the end I have no idea where I am. The only thing I am sure of is the need for a bathroom.
All I can say is that I made it to the toilet at our Teahouse and I now know I have more control of my body than I was ever aware of!
But at least I don’t have the same problem of the Noela and the Mars Bars girls. When I enter the Teahouse they are looking very glum. The Mars Bar girls and Noela have constipation in the extreme and are miserable.
In the afternoon we snooze and watch the world from the large windows and generally soak up this beautiful location. I am feeling good but there is talk all afternoon that Ian might need to return to Kathmandu. His partner is concerned but they also made the decision before they came that the fitter one will continue if the other has to turn back. It is a hard one to make but they are already discussing plans.
Dinner arrives and Neema asks us if we need medication.
Noela and the Mars Bars girls ask for something for constipation and Neema hands them a couple of tablets each. Ooooh, I think that might be asking for trouble!!!
I ask if he has something for my legs as I have third degree chaffing burns.
It is not a problem I usually suffer from, but with dehydrated skin and synthetic materials swishing backwards and forwards, it has created orange sized wounds of agony. He gives me a tube of something which I hope works.
For the rest of the trek though, I use my talc and liberally cake it to the insides of my legs leaving my powdery trail on the wooden floor of every Teahouse after that.
The rest days have helped us renew our energy and we are looking forward to the next leg of the walk. Tomorrow we will be walking to Mahang.
I can’t wait to tell you about this funny little Teahouse. And will Ian be coming with us?
Join me as we pack up and get on trail on route towards Gokyo.
Click here for Day 6 
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